?

Log in

Working on it

Fenchurch TODO list

A friend mentioned Fenchurch in an email to me and asked the inevitable questions, "What's the ETA for completion?" and, "Is there much more to do?" Here is what I replied:

Completion is a vague concept with a project like this. I'd really like to drive to Redemption (an SF con I'm going to at the end of this month), but to do that I'm going to have to pick up the pace and also put off lots of jobs till afterwards. If I can get the respray, woodwork, and ideally the rustproofing done before the con, then the other stuff can wait until afterwards and I should be able to carry on using her while I do the work too.

Update: I didn't make it in time for Redemption, Eastercon, or even ConFounding Tales! I did eventually manage to get her back on the road in time for Year of the Teledu, just under a year after I bought her.

Things to do before I put her back on the road:
  • Weld a channel on the bottom of the driver's door for the door seal attachment.
  • Patch a little hole on the bottom of the driver's side B post. ETA: This turned out to be a bit worse than I'd thought and needed three repair patches.
  • Finish removing the patches of old varnish from the outside woodwork (this needs to be done before the respray because I'm probably going to have to use some chemical stripper on it as sanding hasn't got it all off). ETA: I spent two days trying to strip the varnish off with chemicals but after all that there were still a few patches that stubbornly refused to come off. I eventually managed to shave the last of it off using a razor sharp wood chisel.
  • Bleach the woodwork (again, before the respray in case I accidentally splash some on the paintwork). ETA: I spent ages bleaching it over and over again, and still didn't manage to get it perfect - some of the stains weren't affected by the bleach.
  • Take all the bits off the passenger door, bonnet, front panel, front bumper, body shell, etc that would get in the way of spraying.
  • ETA: Make a new front number plate bracket - when I took the bumper apart it was clear the temporary bodge I did to the old bracket to get it through the MOT wasn't going to hold together much longer.
  • ETA: Zinc-prime the undersides of the front outer wings.
  • Wire-brush, degrease, rust-kill and zinc-prime the arches above the steering rods and the undersides of the sill finishers.
  • ETA: Renovate the wood on the back doors.
  • Treat the woodwork with preservative. ETA: It took over a week to dry due to the cold weather.
  • ETA: Clean up the engine bay a bit, then rust-kill, zinc-prime, and Smoothrite the accessible parts (don't go as far as taking the engine and all the ancillaries out to get to all of it).
  • ETA: Clean up, prime, and paint the cabin floor with Smoothrite.
  • Sand the rest of the rust spots on the bodywork down to bare metal.
  • Drill a new set of mounting holes in the rear wings (the old ones line up with the holes in the wood where I ripped out the knackered captive nuts).
  • Drill mirror mounting holes in the front doors.
  • Treat all the bare metal with rust killer.
  • Clean the garage again to get rid of as much dust as possible. ETA: I ended up doing this several times. Spraying generates lots of dust (overspray) and the garage ceiling produces falling dirt (mostly sawdust - the place used to be a woodworking shop) every time I walk about upstairs.
  • Mask all the areas of the bodywork that don't want painting.
  • Spray the rust-killed metal with zinc primer.
  • ETA:Spray any exposed aluminium parts with etch primer.
  • Flat down the zinc primer and etch primer.
  • Apply filler to any dents/deep scratches.
  • Sand the filler flat.
  • Touch up any exposed metal with more zinc primer.
  • Figure out some way to hold the front doors and wings in a suitable position while I'm spraying them. ETA: I took the easy way out of just putting them on a table and spraying them one side at a time.
  • Spray several coats of primer-filler on everything.
  • ETA: Spray a guide coat on everything.
  • ETA: Flat down the guide coat and primer. ETA: This step took ages.
  • ETA: Apply fine surface filler to any scratches/pitting that's still visible and flat it down again.
  • ETA: Spray a thin coat of etch-primer on any patches of bare metal that were exposed during the flatting-down process.
  • ETA: Spray a final coat of primer-filler on everything and flat it all down yet again.
  • Spray several coats of topcoat on the body shell, rear door panels, rear wings, sill finishers, front panel (both parts), front bumper valance, front doors, front wings, and bonnet.
  • Paint the wheel arches on the body shell, the inside of the wings, and various other bits and pieces with Smoothrite.
  • Treat the woodwork on the back doors and the body with Danish oil.
  • ETA: Reassemble the back doors.
  • ETA: Replace all the door seals.
  • ETA: Put back the rear side panel I took out when I wrongly thought I could get them all out without dismantling the woodwork, and that it would be easier to spray the panels if they weren't attached to the vehicle.
  • Replace the throttle cable. ETA: This turned out to be more awkward than expected because the replacement cable was totally different at the bulkhead end, so I had to drill the end of the old cable out of the casting and modify it to fit the new sleeve - in hindsight it would have been easier to have just put the new inner cable into the old outer sleeve.
  • ETA: Clean and paint all the door hinges, door latches, window winder mechanisms, and other sundry bits and pieces.
  • ETA: Replace the front door handles (the chrome is a mess).
  • ETA: Put the front panel/radiator panel assembly back together and fit it to the car.
  • ETA: Put the front wings back on.
  • ETA: Put the rear wings back on.
  • ETA: Put the front doors back on and fit the door tops, latches, glass, etc.
  • ETA: Put the sill finishers and cover plates back on.
  • ETA: Clean all the seats and trim panels etc. and put them back in the car.
  • ETA: Reassemble the bumpers and fit them.
  • ETA: Put the bonnet back on.
  • ETA: Fit and wire up all the lights.
  • Put the rear windows back in using the new channels.
  • ETA: Put the rear doors back on.
  • Fill the cooling system with a suitable water/antifreeze mix.
  • Set the headlamp aim.
  • If I have any time left, spray Dinitrol (rustproofing treatment) into all the cavities and on the underside of the body.

Things to do after I put her back on the road (roughly in descending order of importance):
  • ETA: Spray the thicker Dinitrol under-body protection on over the thin cavity wax stuff.
  • ETA: Replace the leaky timing cover oil seal and change the timing chain for a full duplex one while I'm in there.
  • ETA: Move the rear door hinges a bit so the doors don't bump together at the top.
  • ETA: Relocate the passenger-side door mirror to the correct position, then fill and paint over the wrong holes.
  • ETA: Replace the faulty driver's side cabin light switch.
  • ETA: Touch up the small paint chips that were caused during reassembly.
  • ETA: Readjust the brakes after the new shoes bed themselves in.
  • ETA: Machine down the passenger-side door hinge that has mysteriously become too thick and is preventing the door closing properly and allowing the seal to let water in.
  • ETA: Replace the tappet cover gaskets because they appear to be weeping slightly.
  • ETA: Change the oil and filter again because she sat in the garage for well over six months while carrying out the respray.
  • Make and fit the heater. ETA: Decided to take the easy way out and bought a working original type heater.
  • Fit rear indicator lights (will need a bit of rewiring), reversing light, and maybe a rear foglight.
  • Fit some kind of immobiliser (maybe just hidden ignition and fuel-pump cutout switches).
  • Fit the locking fuel filler cap.
  • Fix any leaks on the window seals etc. (will only find out if there are any when I start leaving her outside in the rain). ETA: She doesn't leak badly except in really torrential downpours.
  • Change to negative earth.
  • ETA: Replace the points and condenser with a Pertronix Igniter electronic ignition kit.
  • Fit oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge, ammeter, and rev counter.
  • ETA: Clean and re-grease the wiper motor and gearboxes, and replace the chrome gearbox finishers, gaskets, and wiper arms. ETA: The most difficult part of this job turned out to be refitting the gearboxes, because the bottoms of the new chrome finishers were cut at a different angle to the originals.
  • Upgrade the brakes. ETA: I've managed to get hold of two sets of front brakes, a set from a Riley 1.5 and a set from a Wolseley 1500. See later posts for more discussion on the topic of brake upgrades.
  • Fit bigger carb and inlet manifold.
  • Upgrade to alternator instead of dynamo.
  • Fit rear seat belts.
  • ETA: Rebuild my spare fuel pump. ETA: In hindsight I wished I'd got around to doing this before the LEO.
  • ETA: Put together a decent collection of tools and spares to carry on the JOGLE LEO run. ETA: for certain values of "decent." I need to try and come up with a better thought-out collection before the 2008 rallies.
  • Fit stereo.
  • ETA: Hide a KITT style LED bar in the radiator grill (blame hermi_nomi for daring me to do this one).
  • Replace all the corroded exterior chrome parts and the number plates.
  • Maybe fit a towbar and towing electrics.
  • At some point way off in the indefinite future, respray the interior bodywork, revarnish the interior woodwork, replace the trim and seat covers with ones of the correct colour, and fit a carpet.


I think I'd better stay late after work again today...

Comments

Another Almond-Green Traveller on LJ- Marvellous. Only mine's no longer Almond Green, but a strange, indeterminate colour tat I brushed on, for my sins.
I'm guessing you haven't fired up with the unleaded head yet? I've just fitted one, (from a Mini) and the thing runs like a bag of nails, I have apparently unfixable mixture problems and an excess of heat, amongst other things. Any ideas?
What year is yours? Mine's a '62, but with anomalies.. yours is obviously pre, with the sidelights and what-not. Very nice.
It won't be almond green much longer - I'm respraying it Trafalgar Blue.

I've run the unleaded head for about three ten-second bursts so far - I didn't want to risk running it for any longer than that without any coolant. It sounds OK though obviously I haven't driven it yet.

Can you be more specific about the mixture problems? If the same carb was working OK before changing the head, a couple of possibilities I can think of are that maybe the manifold to head gasket is leaking air (thus giving a weak mixture), or perhaps the carb fell on its side and the damping oil leaked out of the dashpot.

I just checked your journal and the problems you describe there sound rather like the typical damp-weather ignition problems. Try wiping the inside of the distributor cap with a paper towel and dousing everything liberally with WD40.

If you want more suggestions, try posting a question on the Morris Minor Owner's Club Forum (I hang out on there as alex_holden).

Fenchurch is mid-1963. She has a 1098cc engine, but flashing brake light indicators and the early type of heater (which had a knackered matrix).
No, I didn't like the shade of the Almond either- especially after the trouble I had hand-painting cellulose. (I have a strange, back-to-basics approach to maintenance that borders on the comic.) I've no idea what the current green is, i mixed it meself- but it's much nicer, and I couldn't be bothered changing the logbook, interior etc.
Not the gasket and not the carb- those were my first ports of call. I've got it running better now, but not perfect- I have a hunch it may be a disparity with the Mini rockers and the Morris pushrods not quite giving the right angle for the valves. (?) I'll try the old Morris rocker shaft back on and see...
I had those indicators taken off mine, and those nasty large ones put on.. I fitted a couple of early sidelights and flat lens indicators instead, bit of a cheat but looks better.
I'm not sure about cold weather stuff, it's been pretty good up till yesterday, and I try to keep the electrics dry and oiled. I shall have to check out the MMOC noticeboards- I joined recently, but haven't really become involved yet.
Cheers for peering at the journal!
I just prefer the blue... Actually I really liked a colour called Royale Blue, but I photoshopped up sample images of Fenchurch painted in Trafalgar and Royale, and everyone I showed them to said they preferred the Trafalgar. [shrug]

I don't think it's likely to be the rocker arms. Is the head you've fitted not a 12G202? If you've put a 948 head on a 1098 engine I think that might cause a higher compression ratio and pinking as well as poorer performance in general. Better to ask on the MMOC forum though as there are people on there who know a lot more about the various different head options than I do.

I don't think the bigger front indicators are all that bad. I've already got all the bits and modified the wings now so it's too late to change my mind, but with hindsight what I would have done instead is to buy the MIni halogen headlight conversion with the integrated sidelights and fit indicators in place of the existing sidelights.